NOTE: Overnight Marinate

Notes: Brisket selection - Find a tender brisket, If the meat bends easily it is more tender. Also, look for 1/4 to 1/2 inch layer of fat on top

Slow cook - keep at 250 for about 5 hours

Use Hickory or mesquite wood chips for smoke

For Brisket

4 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
1 tablespoon (packed) golden brown sugar
2 teaspoons ancho chile powder
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1 5-to 5 1/2-pound flat-cut (also called first-cut) brisket with 1/4- to 1/2-inch layer of fat on 1 side

4 cups hickory or oak wood chips, soaked in water 1 hour

4 disposable 6 x 3 3/4 x 2-inch mini aluminum loaf pans (for wood chips, if using gas grill)

2 11 3/4 x 8 1/2x1 1/4-inch disposable aluminum pans (for brisket)
Heavy-duty aluminum foil

For Ancho Chile Sauce

1 dried ancho chile, stemmed, seeded, coarsely torn
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup chopped onion
1 tablespoon tomato paste
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup dry red wine
1/2 cup ketchup
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon (packed) dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

For Brisket

Mix first 7 ingredients in small bowl. Rub spice blend over brisket. Wrap brisket in plastic; refrigerate at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.

For charcoal grill:

Remove top rack from barbecue. Prepare barbecue (low heat). Light briquettes in chimney; pour onto 1 side of lower grill rack (you'll need to light more briquettes in chimney to replenish 2 or 3 more times during grilling). Drain 2 cups wood chips. Scatter 2 cups wood chips over coals. Return grill rack to barbecue. Heat barbecue to 300°F.

For gas grill:

Remove top rack from barbecue. Prepare barbecue (low heat). If using 2-burner grill, light 1 burner. If using 3-burner grill, do not light center burner. Drain 2 cups wood chips. Stack 2 mini loaf pans (one inside the other); fill with 1 cup wood chips. Stack remaining loaf pans; fill with 1 cup wood chips. Place pans over flame (if using 3-burner grill, place both pans on 1 lit side). Return rack to barbecue. Heat barbecue to 300°F. (If temperature rises too high on 3-burner grill, turn off burner without chips.)

Unwrap brisket and arrange fat side up in 11 3/4 x 8 1/2 x 1 1/4-inch aluminum pan; place pan over unlit part of barbecue. Cover barbecue.

Cook brisket until instant-read thermometer inserted into center registers 160°F, adjusting vents or adding more charcoal as needed (if using charcoal grill) or adjusting gas levels (if using gas grill) to maintain temperature inside barbecue grill at 250°F, about 31/2 hours.

Baste brisket occasionally with pan juices and add more drained wood chips as needed.

Remove pan with brisket. Discard pan and juices. Wrap brisket tightly in 2 wide sheets of heavy-duty foil. Place in clean 11 3/4 x 8 1/2 x 1 1/4-inch aluminum pan. Return to grill over unlit side, maintaining temperature inside grill at 250°F, until instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of center of brisket registers 190°F, about 1 1/2 hours longer.

Transfer brisket in pan to rimmed baking sheet. Let rest at least 1 hour and up to 2 hours.

Carefully unwrap brisket, saving any juices in foil. Transfer juices to small pitcher. Place brisket on work surface. Thinly slice brisket across grain; transfer to platter. Brush brisket with some of juices. Serve with any remaining juices and Ancho Chile Sauce.

For Ancho Chile Sauce

Place chile in medium bowl. Pour enough boiling water over to cover; let soak until soft, about 30 minutes. Drain, reserving soaking liquid.

Heat oil in heavy medium saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until soft, stirring often, about 4 minutes. Add tomato paste; stir 2 minutes. Add garlic and stir 30 seconds. Add wine and softened chile; simmer 2 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons reserved chile soaking liquid, ketchup, and all remaining ingredients. Simmer 3 minutes, stirring often. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and cool slightly.

Puree sauce in blender, adding more reserved soaking liquid by tablespoonfuls if too thick.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill.

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